Climbing

Climbing Montage - Panyes Ford

Welcome to Paines Ford and the Golden Bay climbing extravaganza. Here you will find enough hard rock to wear out a Husqvarna Jackhammer. Even Gabe Walker (Stallone/Cliffhanger) would be nanna-napping after a day on Paines’ steeps.

You have two main crag options for climbing in Golden Bay, with a few other off-track spots scattered around. However, between the bush clad limestone bluffs of Paines Ford and the sun-baked Pohara Sea Cliffs you have over 300 climbs to keep you pumped for months on end. Route guides for the crags are available at the Hangdog office.

The high majority of the climbs are single pitch sport routes with fixed protection and lower-offs. A rack of 10-15 quickdraws, some ‘biners, belay devices and the other basic necessities will generally see you right. Some routes can require some extra natural protection, and there is the occasional trad route.

A standard 50m dynamic rope is generally sufficient, though a 60m is useful for conquering a few of the sustained classics at Paynes and particularly at the Pohara Sea Cliffs . Nearly all of the climbs have lower-off/ abseil anchors at the top and we ask that people abseil off where possible to preserve the anchors, your rope and the rock.

All basic equipment (including ropes) can be hired from the Hangdog Office, and we have cheap deals on buying your own.

Click the following links to learn more about the climbing at each location: